Œillet Pourpre Lui
Originally released as Lui in 2017 and renamed Œillet Pourpre when it joined L'Art & La Matière in 2021, this is Delphine Jelk's carnation study — the spice-flower seen through Guerlain's darker, denser house lens rather than the powdery vintage one.
The scent fingerprint
Weighted by intensity across 12 accords.
Every perfume in Sillage is represented as a distribution across canonical accord slugs — a lingua franca for scent. Two fragrances with overlapping fingerprints are scent-twins, even if they share no literal note.
- Soft Spicy50
- Lactonic50
- Sweet50
- Vanilla
The note pyramid
- Pear
- Clove
- Benzoin
- Carnation
- Leather
- Vanilla
By the editors · 2 min readOriginally released as Lui in 2017 and renamed Œillet Pourpre when it joined L'Art & La Matière in 2021, this is Delphine Jelk's carnation study — the spice-flower seen through Guerlain's darker, denser house lens rather than the powdery vintage one. Clove and pear open it; the pear keeps the clove from going purely medicinal.
The heart is the work. Carnation and benzoin braided together — Jelk's stated intent was to use benzoin to make carnation provocative rather than nostalgic — with the clove still humming underneath. A leather note threads through the base, alongside vanilla and a quiet musk, giving the flower a smoky-suede frame.
Niche tier — small bottle, high concentration, eight-plus hours' wear. Cool-weather evening fragrance for someone who wants a carnation that doesn't read as their grandmother's.
Scent twins
Factual metadata (name, house, year, notes) is seeded from public datasets. The editorial reading and scent fingerprint are written by Claude against our house style — none of it is scraped prose. Read our methodology.
