Vitriol d’œillet
The name promises violence—vitriol—but what arrives is something softer and more disorienting.
The scent fingerprint
Weighted by intensity across 13 accords.
Every perfume in Sillage is represented as a distribution across canonical accord slugs — a lingua franca for scent. Two fragrances with overlapping fingerprints are scent-twins, even if they share no literal note.
- Soft Spicy50
- White Floral50
- Woody50
- Sweet
The note pyramid
- Black Pepper
- Pink Pepper
- Clove
- Nutmeg
By the editors · 2 min readThe name promises violence—vitriol—but what arrives is something softer and more disorienting. Vitriol d'œillet opens with a stark clash of dusty carnation and a medicinal, almost iodine-like sharpness that feels intentionally unsettling. There's pepper, yes, and something greenish that never quite resolves into prettiness. It refuses the usual spiced-carnation warmth.
As it settles, the composition grows quieter but no less strange. The floral heart remains dry and oddly mineral, as though preserved rather than fresh. A faint muskiness appears underneath, skin-like but distant. The overall effect is austere, even cold—a carnation stripped of its Victorian associations and left to speak in a harder, more modern register.
This is Lutens at his most severe. It suits those who find traditional florals cloying and want something that maintains its edge throughout the wear. Not a perfume that comforts.
Scent twins
Factual metadata (name, house, year, notes) is seeded from public datasets. The editorial reading and scent fingerprint are written by Claude against our house style — none of it is scraped prose. Read our methodology.
