Releases
DNA over time
Each column is an era. Each colored band shows that family’s share of accord weight across every perfume the house released in that window. Bigger band = the house leaned harder on that family.
All fragrances
Ambre sultan Serge Lutens 1993 Eau de Parfum
Ambre sultan opens with a wave of herbal heat—bay leaf and oregano melting into resinous amber, like wandering through a spice souk at dusk.
Douce amère
Un lys
Datura noir Serge Lutens 2001 Eau de Parfum
La fille de Berlin Serge Lutens 1970 Confit de Parfum
Tubéreuse criminelle
L'Eau
Féminité du bois 30 ans
Un bois sépia
Iris Silver Mist Edition Limitée 2004
De Profundis Limited Edition
Sidi Bel-Abbès
Fille en Aiguilles
The title translates to "girl in needles," and that duality—soft and sharp—defines the composition.
Zellige Limited Edition: Fleurs d'Oranger
Fumerie Turque
De Profundis
Veilleur de Nuit
Borneo 1834
Opening with the damp, loamy weight of aged patchouli, Borneo 1834 smells less like a perfume and more like stepping into a shadowed tropical greenhouse after rain.
Encens et Lavande
Chergui
Chergui opens with a warm gust of hay and honey, undercut by the medicinal sharpness of tobacco leaf.
Fourreau Noir
Fourreau Noir opens with a startling collision—lavender stripped of its herbal comfort and tonka bean rendered nearly austere.
Zellige Limited Edition: Ambre Sultan
Zellige Limited Edition: La Fille de Berlin
Sarrasins
Sarrasins opens with a deceptive clarity—bergamot brightening jasmine into something almost transparent, like white petals under noon sun.
Écrin de Fumée
A fireplace draft carrying the ghost of a cigar box.
Chene
**Chene**
Renard Constrictor
Ambre Sultan
Ambre Sultan opens with a jolt of bay leaf and oregano—green, almost medicinal, startling for an amber.
Rahat Loukoum
The opening is immediate and arresting: a dusty, almost powdery sweetness that sits somewhere between confectioner's sugar and old wood.
Santal de Mysore
Christopher Sheldrake's description is accurate: the spices here nearly cry out.
Cannibale
L'Haleine des Dieux
Vetiver Oriental
A vetiver flanked by warm, resinous supports rather than citrus brightness.
Bois de Violette
Bois de Violette opens with a dusted, spiced sweetness—violet petals folded into cedar shavings, the purple note neither candy-like nor powdery in the usual sense.
Bois Oriental
Five O Clock au Gingembre
The first spray delivers a sharp bergamot gleam quickly warmed by cinnamon—not the sweet, baked kind, but something drier and more aromatic, almost medicinal.
Santal Majuscule
Santal Majuscule opens with a dry, almost chalky rose that seems to hover just above the skin, refusing the usual lushness.
Tubereuse Criminelle
The opening is a provocation — a cold, rubbery, almost petrol-like blast that has to be crossed before the tuberose reveals itself.
Un Bois Vanille
Un Bois Vanille opens sweet and resinous, like dark caramel cooling on sandalwood.
Bourreau Des Fleurs
Douce Amere
Opens with a jolt of absinthe-bright wormwood, bitter and aromatic, like crushed herbs on a marble counter.
Rose de Nuit
Feminité du Bois
Feminite du Bois opens with an unexpected warmth—candied plum and peach steeped in cinnamon, all draped over raw cedar planks.
La Vierge De Fer
Chypre Rouge
Chypre-Rouge opens with a brief flash of thyme—green and medicinal—before sinking into something darker and more ambiguous.
Bois et Fruits
The dusty warmth of a spice merchant's shop collides with candied stone fruit, all amber-lit and slightly overripe.
El Attarine
L'Orpheline Edition Limitée
La Myrrhe
La Myrrhe opens with a burst of bright mandarin that quickly dissolves into the dense, resinous heart of myrrh—not the cleaned-up kind, but something darker, almost medicinal.
Daim Blond
Daim Blond opens with the powdery softness of suede rendered as fragrance—not leather's sharp tannins, but its quieter, more refined cousin.
Iris Silver Mist
Iris Silver Mist opens with a chilled, almost metallic quality—galbanum sharpening the iris into something glacial and remote.
Cuir Mauresque
Cuir Mauresque opens with a rush of spiced mandarin and clove, sweet and sharp at once, before revealing its animalic heart.
Rousse
Rousse opens with a henna-stained warmth, earthy and slightly medicinal, like walking into an apothecary where dried roots meet old wood.
Datura Noir
Datura Noir announces itself with tuberose that refuses to behave—less white-flower sweetness, more earthy narcotic shadow.
La Fille de Berlin
The rose here arrives cold and metallic, almost austere—petals pressed between iron rather than velvet.
Louve
# Louve
Gris Clair
**Gris Clair** opens with a brief flicker of bergamot and lavender before quickly settling into something more peculiar—a soft, almost chalky tonka that feels less gourmand than mineral.
Arabie
Arabie announces itself with sticky-sweet dried fruit and a haze of cumin that hovers at the edge of sweat-like intensity.
Boxeuses
L'orpheline
L'orpheline opens with a cool, ash-dusted incense that feels almost mineral—like the floor of a stone chapel after the censer has passed.