Ungaro
1980s Parisian couture chypres, still in print.
Emanuel Ungaro opened his couture house in Paris in 1965, after apprenticing with Cristóbal Balenciaga and André Courrèges. The fragrance line came later: Diva launched in 1983, a heavy chypre built around rose, civet, and oakmoss that became one of the defining women's perfumes of the decade. Senso (1987), Ungaro pour L'Homme, and Apparition followed through the 1990s and 2000s. In 1997, Ungaro, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Bulgari co-founded Emanuel Ungaro Parfums to manage the fragrance license; the line is now produced under Inter Parfums. The couture business changed hands several times after the founder's retirement and his death in 2019, and the perfume catalogue has thinned to a handful of active SKUs plus reissues. Diva and Senso still circulate among vintage chypre collectors, and the house remains a fixture in any survey of 1980s Parisian fashion-fragrance crossovers.
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DNA over time
Each column is an era. Each colored band shows that family’s share of accord weight across every perfume the house released in that window. Bigger band = the house leaned harder on that family.
