Nagarmotha

Xerjoff

Two varieties of saffron — Spanish and Iranian — give Gao an immediate density that reads more savory than sweet, the doubled sourcing adding a subtle layering to what might otherwise be a single note.

Yves Saint Laurent

A spare, architectural opening: black pepper and juniper arrive dry and resinous, with nagarmotha — a smoky Indian sedge root — adding a medicinal earthiness that sets this apart from conventional iris compositions.