daniel moliere
Editor’s note pending — every credited perfumer eventually gets a written profile here.
The compositions
Insense
The opening of Insense arrives like clean laundry aired on a spring day—crisp lavender and basil lifted by citrus, with blackcurrant adding a subtle tartness that keeps the herbs from turning medicinal.
Clandestine
The opening arrives with an unexpected sweetness—overripe plum and pineapple that lean candied rather than fresh, tempered by bergamot's bitter edge.
Santos de Cartier
Santos de Cartier opens with a bracing clash of medicinal lavender and sharp galbanum, tempered by neroli's bitter-green citrus.
Eau de Givenchy
Mint and grapefruit open with a cool, bright freshness unusual for 1980 — a more transparent launch than most contemporaries were attempting.
Fleur d'Interdit
The opening bursts with juicy, almost candied fruit—melon and berries that feel plush rather than sharp, sweetened by a haze of freesia.