fran�ois demachy
Editor’s note pending — every credited perfumer eventually gets a written profile here.
The compositions
Dior Homme Original
Masculin Ouragan
Sakura
New Look 1947
Souffle de Soie
Leather Oud
Dior Homme Parfum
A leather rose wound tight with iris—this is Dior Homme Parfum in its opening moments, darker and more resinous than the cologne or intense versions that preceded it.
Dior Homme Cologne 2022
Dior Homme Cologne (2022) opens with a crisp citrus brightness that feels almost medicinal in its cleanness—grapefruit and bergamot stripped of sweetness, edged with something faintly herbal.
Dior Homme Intense 2011
Dior Homme Intense opens with a powdery whisper of lavender and iris that feels almost talc-like in its softness.
Dior Homme Cologne 2013
Dior Homme Cologne strips the line's signature iris down to a whisper, centering instead on a translucent musk foundation.
Dior Homme
Dior Homme opens with a brisk aromatic sweep—lavender and sage tempered by bergamot—that quickly gives way to its famous iris heart.
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée
Colonia Leather arrives with a burst of raspberry — jammy rather than fresh — before a single rose steps forward in the heart.
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Mitzah
Mitzah opens with a sharp burst of green cardamom that quickly warms into something darker and more resinous.
Eau Sauvage Parfum 2017
# Eau Sauvage Parfum (2017)
Ungaro pour l'Homme
Eau Sauvage Parfum
The opening is all citrus brightness—petitgrain and bergamot cutting through with a green, slightly bitter edge that feels more herbal than fruity.
Dior Homme Sport 2021
The 2021 reformulation of Dior Homme Sport strips away the iris-heavy signature of its predecessors for something leaner and more transparent.
Dior Homme Sport 2012
The 2012 formulation of Dior Homme Sport opens with a sharp citrus-ginger bite tempered by pink pepper's metallic tingle.
Sauvage Elixir
Sauvage Elixir opens with a jolt of heat—cinnamon and cardamom collide with grapefruit in a way that feels more molten than fresh.
J Adore l'Or 2017
J'adore L'Or arrives with a molten brilliance, jasmine pushed to amber extremes.
Dior Homme Eau for Men
The citrus opening arrives bright and unambiguous—grapefruit with a hint of bergamot, clean and immediate.
Balade Sauvage
A crisp citrus opening of petitgrain and bergamot gives way almost immediately to the perfume's real focus: a lush, sun-warmed fig note that feels half-green, half-milky.
Miss Dior Brume Soyeuse pour le Corps
Dior Addict Eau de Parfum (2014)
The 2014 reformulation of Dior Addict opens with a rush of neroli brightness that quickly softens into something warmer and surprisingly tactile.
Fahrenheit Le Parfum
Fahrenheit Le Parfum opens with the unmistakable smell of fine suede—not the harsh chemical approximation, but a supple, worn-in leather accord that feels closer to textile than hide.
Hypnotic Poison Extrait de Parfum
Miss Dior Parfum pour Cheveux
La Colle Noire (2018)
Acqua di Parma Profumo 2008
Dior Addict Eau de Parfum
Dior Addict Eau de Parfum opens with a rush of orange blossom that feels almost honeyed, thick rather than fresh.
Jasmin Des Anges
A luminous jasmine lifted by apricot's soft fuzz and osmanthus's suede-like sweetness.
Gris Montaigne
The opening is a bolt of grapefruit and bergamot, bright and sharp enough to sting, but within minutes it softens into something pillowy and strange.
Miss Dior Absolutely Blooming Roller Pearl
Fève Délicieuse
Fève Délicieuse opens with a surprising coolness—mint and lavender cut through the air before the tonka bean at its heart begins to assert itself.
Colonia Intensa
Colonia Intensa opens with a sharp, aromatic jolt—ginger and cardamom crackle together, warm but unsweetened, like crushed spices on a damp wooden counter.
Miss Dior Eau de Toilette Roller Pearl 2019
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir
Gris Dior New Look Limited Edition
J Adore l'Or
J'adore L'Or opens with a brief flash of floral brightness—jasmine and rose announce themselves clearly but without the piercing intensity of their fresh counterparts.
Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet Roller Pearl
Eau Sauvage Extreme 2010
Dior Homme Sport
Dior Homme Sport opens with a bright grapefruit-bergamot salvo that feels more energetic than aggressively citrus.
Colonia Oud
The opening is brighter than you expect from an oud fragrance—citrus still flashes through, softened by the woody warmth that follows almost immediately.
Sauvage Very Cool Spray
Sauvage Very Cool Spray opens with a bright citrus thrust—grapefruit and bergamot arrive sharp and immediate, cooled to an almost mentholated clarity.
Dior Homme Sport Very Cool Spray
Santal Noir
Santal Noir arrives in Dior's La Collection Privée as the definitive dark sandalwood — a perfume that earns its title through sheer presence rather than literalism.
Grand Bal (2018)
Sauvage Eau de Parfum
The opening rushes forward with a bracing bergamot that feels almost electric—bright citrus stripped of sweetness, channeling raw energy rather than refinement.
Miss Dior Le Parfum
**Miss Dior Le Parfum** opens with a rush of orange blossom that feels almost narcotic—honeyed, indolic, dense with warmth.
Tiffany
Poison Girl Unexpected Roller Pearl
Fève Délicieuse (2018)
The opening of mint and lavender arrives like a clean gust, aromatic and almost medicinal, before giving way to a soft floral heart that never quite dominates.
Miss Dior Rose N Roses Roller Pearl
Aqua Fahrenheit
Aqua Fahrenheit opens with a crisp grapefruit bite that feels more bracing than sweet, quickly joined by a mint-basil accord that leans green and almost medicinal.
Eau Sauvage Cologne
Eau Sauvage Cologne opens with the bright snap of grapefruit, cutting through with a citrus clarity that feels both bracing and clean.
Masculin 2 Vetyver
Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle
The original Hypnotic Poison's almond-bitter theatrics are softened here into something warmer and less angular.
Hypnotic Poison Eau de Parfum
The opening is immediate and unapologetic—sweet almond with a bitter edge, like marzipan left to oxidize in air.
Miss Dior Cherie Eau De Toilette 2010
Miss Dior Chérie EDT 2010 opens with an intense white floral chorus — tuberose, jasmine, lily of the valley, and freesia all at once, a voluminous composition that reads as a declaration rather than an introduction.
Spice Blend
The first spray delivers a jolt of candied ginger laced with dark rum—sweet heat that feels more confectionary than cocktail.
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorissimo Eau de Parfum
Diorissimo Eau de Parfum takes the iconic 1956 lily-of-the-valley soliflore and reframes it in a denser, more enveloping register.
Ambre Nuit New Look Limited Edition
Miss Dior Eau De Toilette
The 2013 Miss Dior Eau de Toilette opens with a bright slap of blood orange—more zest than sweetness, clean and immediate.
Cuir Cannage
The opening is deceptively floral—ylang-ylang and orange blossom arrive with a creamy sweetness that feels almost too polite, given the name.
Oud Rosewood
François Demachy weaves Oud Rosewood around a central pairing: the dark, resinous depth of agarwood against the lighter, fruitier character of palisander rosewood — a jacquard, as Dior's own description has it.
Dior Homme 2020
The 2020 reformulation opens with a bright flash of pink pepper and bergamot before quickly settling into something quieter.
Vanilla Diorama
Vanilla Diorama opens with pink pepper and citrus — the pepper adding a slightly sharp, slightly sweet facet to orange and lemon, making the opening more complex than a straightforward fresh-citrus start.
Miss Dior Couture Edition
Fahrenheit Cologne
Dior's 2015 reinterpretation strips Fahrenheit down to sunlit essentials.
La Colle Noire
François Demachy composed La Colle Noire as a tribute to the Grasse estate where Christian Dior grew his obsession: the May rose.
Dahlia Divin Le Nectar de Parfum
Dahlia Divin Le Nectar de Parfum opens with mimosa's soft, powdery honeyed quality—less floral sharpness, more dusted sweetness.
The Cachemire
Patchouli Imperial
Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo - Arancia La Spugnatura
Acqua di parma Blue Mediterraneo - Mirto di Panarea
The first spray is a bright citrus surge tempered by cool, slightly peppery basil—like standing on sun-warmed stone steps near the sea, crushing lemon leaves underfoot.
Dior Homme Sport 2017
The 2017 reformulation opens with a burst of candied citrus—grapefruit and blood orange sugared at the edges, balanced by a crisp pear note that reads more orchard than synthetic.
Miss Dior (2012)
The 2012 reformulation of Miss Dior strips away much of the original's baroque complexity, centering instead on a polished rose-patchouli axis.
Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Parfum
The original Miss Dior Chérie Eau de Parfum opened with a pronounced strawberry accord that felt candied and immediate, softening quickly into a jammy sweetness.
Oud Ispahan
Oud Ispahan opens with a warmth that feels immediate and enveloping—labdanum's resinous depth meeting saffron's red-gold threads.
Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile
The first breath is a gentle prickle of pink pepper—barely there, more texture than heat—before white flowers take over completely.
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling
Poison Girl Eau De Toilette
The eau de toilette flanker strips away much of the original Poison Girl's gourmand weight, leaving something lighter but no less sweet.
Cruise Collection - Escale a Portofino
The opening is a brisk citrus wave—petitgrain's green bitterness tempered by lemon and bergamot—that conjures Mediterranean mornings without the usual sunscreen sweetness.
Fahrenheit 32
Fahrenheit 32 opens with a rush of orange blossom and neroli that feels both solar and oddly cold, like citrus petals frozen mid-bloom.
J Adore l'Absolu
J'Adore L'Absolu begins at volume — ylang-ylang dominant in the opening, its sweet-banana-floral character more pronounced than in the original J'Adore, the parfum concentration removing any airiness that might soften it.
Miss Dior Cherie l'Eau
The cheerful younger cousin of Miss Dior Chérie, stripped down and lightened for warm weather.
Sauvage Parfum
Sauvage Parfum opens with a flash of bright bergamot that quickly gives way to a dominant sandalwood accord, creamy and almost lactonic in texture.
J Adore Absolu
J'adore Absolu is the heavier, more concentrated sister to the 1999 original, pushing the white-floral bouquet deeper into dark territory.
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville
Miss Dior Absolutely Blooming
The first spray is a burst of fruit cordial—pomegranate and raspberry tart enough to cut through the sweetness, pink pepper adding a fizzy bite.
Dior Addict 2 Eau Fraiche
Acqua di Parma Colonia Pura
Colonia Pura opens with the clearest, most luminous citrus in Acqua di Parma's range—petitgrain and bergamot lifted by a precise orange note that feels scrubbed and immediate rather than sweetly Mediterranean.
Poison Girl Eau de Toilette Roller Pearl
J Adore Lumiere Eau de Toilette
J'Adore Lumière opens with a sunny burst of blood orange and lemon that feels less like citrus sparkle and more like honeyed citrus skin warmed in afternoon light.
Hypnotic Poison Eau Secrete
# Hypnotic Poison Eau Secrète
Furiosa
Furiosa opens with a sharp prickle of pink pepper that quickly softens into bright bergamot, setting a tone that's more restless than sweet.
Mirto di Panarea Limited Edition
Poison Girl Unexpected
A zesty opening of ginger and blood orange gives *Poison Girl Unexpected* a bright, effervescent start that feels uncharacteristic of the Poison lineage—more citrus-forward than sultry.
Dahlia Divin Eau de Toilette
The peachy brightness at the opening feels sun-warmed rather than syrupy, cut with blood orange's tart edge and the faint spice of pink pepper.
Addict To Life
Addict to Life opens with a rush of fruit that feels less like a perfume note and more like biting into something ripe—pomegranate tart and slightly bitter, raspberry jammy, peach lending a soft fuzz around the edges.
Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Printemps
Miss Dior Eau de Parfum (2017)
The 2017 Miss Dior Eau de Parfum opens with a bright citrus snap—blood orange and pink pepper creating an immediate, effervescent contrast.
Dior Addict Eau de Toilette
The 2014 Eau de Toilette reinterprets Dior Addict as a brighter, airier composition.
Poison Girl
Poison Girl opens with a bright citrus spark that quickly gives way to its true nature: a soft, enveloping cloud of almond and heliotrope.
Miss Dior Eau de Toilette 2019
The 2019 eau de toilette opens bright and citrus-forward, blood orange and mandarin striking a sharp, sunny chord that feels more daylit than the parfum's deeper registers.
Eau de Givenchy (2018)
The 2018 reissue opens with a bright wash of citrus—petitgrain and neroli leading, with bergamot and lemon sharpening the edges.
Dior Addict Eau Delice
Orange and bergamot open with warm citrus brightness — not the cool chill of citrus sport fragrances but something sunnier, softer.
Rosa Nobile
Rosa Nobile opens with a single note of bergamot — clean and citrus-forward, setting a bright Italian stage before the floral heart arrives.
Dior Addict Eau Fraiche 2012
The opening strikes with a bright citrus jolt—bergamot and grapefruit cutting clean through the air.
Eau de Givenchy Rosée
Dior Addict Eau Sensuelle
The original Dior Addict's softer sister opens with a clean rose that feels almost soapy in its freshness—not vintage garden bloom, but something sheer and recently washed.
Miss Dior Rose Essence
Sauvage
The opening is a bright burst of pink pepper and bergamot that feels sharper than most fresh masculines, almost electric.
Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy
Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy opens with an unexpected herbal clarity—basil leaves crushed between fingertips, green and slightly peppery, more kitchen garden than floral boutique.
Miss Dior Parfum (2024)
Miss Dior Parfum opens with a plush, almost syrupy embrace of apricot and peach, ripe enough to feel indulgent but held in check by the formulation's weight.
Dahlia Noir Eau de Toilette
Dahlia Noir EDT trims the mystery of its EDP counterpart into something more wearable — a peach-washed rose with enough pink pepper to keep it from saccharine comfort.
Miss Dior Eau de Parfum (2021)
The 2021 reimagining of Miss Dior opens with a pale floral brightness—lily of the valley lending a clean, nearly soapy freshness, softened by iris powder and the watery quality of peony.
Dahlia Divin
Dahlia Divin opens with a bright snap of pink pepper that quickly dissolves into a lush orchard of peach and apple, their sweetness tempered by the green freshness of lily of the valley.
Joy by Dior Intense
Joy by Dior Intense opens with a citrus-floral prelude — neroli and bergamot, bright and brief — before committing entirely to jasmine, which fills the heart with an almost solar presence.
J Adore Infinissime
J'Adore Infinissime arrives with more immediacy than the original: blood orange and pink pepper open things with a citric sharpness and a faint spice that reads as confident rather than aggressive.
J Adore in Joy
J'Adore In Joy is a lighter summer interpretation of the J'Adore family — sea salt doing the work that bergamot does in the EDP, providing brightness but marine rather than citric.
Miss Dior Rose N Roses
**Miss Dior Rose N'Roses** opens with a bright bergamot sparkle that quickly gives way to its central promise: Damask rose in full bloom.
Eden-Roc
Eden Roc opens with a mineral salinity that feels less oceanic than it does coastal—air and stone rather than crashing waves.
Fan di Fendi
Fan di Fendi opens with the plush sweetness of ripe pear tempered by tart black currant, a fruit pairing that feels modern without tipping into candy.
Cruise Collection Escale a Parati
Miss Dior Eau Fraiche
The opening is bright and green, with galbanum lending a crisp, almost bitter freshness to the bergamot's citrus spark.
Dahlia Noir
The opening arrives with a shimmer of pink pepper and bergamot, softened almost immediately by mimosa's powdery embrace.
Kenzo Homme Sport
Kenzo Homme Sport Extreme
Dahlia Noir L’Eau
The opening is a crisp citrus blur—neroli's bitter petals mingling with lemon and grapefruit in a way that feels more sheer than sharp.
Joy by Dior
Joy by Dior opens with a soft citrus clarity—bergamot that never shouts, instead settling quickly into the jasmine that dominates from the first minute.