N°5 Chanel 1986 Eau de Parfum
The 1986 EDP captures Chanel No.
The scent fingerprint
Weighted by intensity across 13 accords.
Every perfume in Sillage is represented as a distribution across canonical accord slugs — a lingua franca for scent. Two fragrances with overlapping fingerprints are scent-twins, even if they share no literal note.
- Floral80
- Rose75
- Iris55
- Woody
The note pyramid
- Aldehydes
- Neroli
- Lemon
- Bergamot
- Jasmine
- Lily of the Valley
- Iris
By the editors · 2 min readThe 1986 EDP captures Chanel No. 5 at a point before the reformulations of later decades had altered its balance. Bergamot, lemon, and neroli open with the familiar citrus brightness — clean and precise rather than overtly perfumed. The floral heart is dense: jasmine and rose dominating, iris lending powder, lily of the valley contributing whiteness. This is the abstract floral structure that became the reference for feminine fragrance in the twentieth century.
The base moves through sandalwood and vetiver — warm and dry simultaneously — anchored by amber and a modest vanilla. Measured, composed, and constructed for longevity and projection; best suited to formal settings or evenings where sustained presence is the point.
Scent twins
Factual metadata (name, house, year, notes) is seeded from public datasets. The editorial reading and scent fingerprint are written by Claude against our house style — none of it is scraped prose. Read our methodology.




