geza schoen
Editor’s note pending — every credited perfumer eventually gets a written profile here.
The compositions
Osmanthus
4. Montabaco Intensivo
The opening is immediate and sharp—cardamom gives an almost medicinal brightness, tempered by bergamot and the cool, herbaceous bitterness of clary sage.
Nawab of Oudh
Nawab of Oudh opens with a bright citrus-cardamom greeting that quickly gives way to a burnished warmth, where cinnamon unfurls against creamy magnolia petals.
Black Gold
X For Men
The opening strikes an unusual balance: bright pineapple sharpened by ginger and pink pepper, bergamot keeping it from tilting too sweet.
1872 For Men
The opening salvo of 1872 for Men arrives bright and almost baroque—a profusion of citrus and fruit crowned with aromatic herbs, where lavender and rosemary anchor the brightness of lime and grapefruit, while pineapple and peach add an unexpected sweetness.
True Love
Ormonde Man
Ormonde Man opens with a bright snap of pink pepper and cardamom over bergamot, then quickly settles into something more composed—a woody core of sandalwood and vetiver that feels smooth rather than sharp.
Vanille d'Iris
Pink pepper opens alone — sharp, dry, and slightly spicy, signaling a fragrance that intends restraint over comfort.
Montabaco
The opening is a jolt of dry spice—cardamom crackling over suede—rather than the citrus burst you might expect.
Escentric 01 Limited Edition
Ormonde Woman
Ormonde Woman arrives green and cool — cardamom and dry grass opening into something unusual, almost medicinal, the kind of freshness found in deep shade rather than sunlit meadows.
Tolu
The first breath delivers a silvery brightness—orange blossom cut with the herbal, slightly medicinal edge of clary sage.
Ultimate
Pink pepper and bergamot open with a bright, lightly spiced freshness.
Ta If
The opening is immediate and vivid—saffron unfurls with its leathery, medicinal warmth, cut through by the bright snap of pink pepper.
Tsarina
Tsarina opens with a fleeting brightness—bergamot and mandarin—before the heart asserts itself almost immediately.
Escentric 05
The opening strikes immediately green and resinous—fig leaf and rosemary crushed between fingers, sharp with herbal oils and faintly soapy bergamot.
Orris Noir
Frangipani
The lime opening is bright but brief, quickly giving way to something richer and more resinous than the name suggests.
Isfarkand
Champaca
Champaca opens with a bright clash—neroli's bitter citrus peel meeting the snap of pink pepper, softened by an almost aqueous bamboo accord that feels more vegetal than green.
Qi
Tiare
gs03
Zizan
Zizan opens with a sharp, almost medicinal clarity—clary sage and pink pepper converge in a brisk, herbal snap softened only slightly by citrus.
gs01
Sampaquita
gs02
Escentric 03
Ginger and lime strike first—bright and resinous rather than citrus-sharp—quickly joined by a peppery warmth that feels more like spice-dusted wood than culinary heat.