mathilde bijaoui
Editor’s note pending — every credited perfumer eventually gets a written profile here.
The compositions
Velvet Oriental Musk
This Is Me!
Feuille de Figuier
Gris Charnel Extrait
Gris Charnel Extrait opens with fig and cardamom — not the bright-green fig of colognes but something closer to ripe fig in autumn: warmer, slightly winey, with cardamom's spice rounding the sweetness.
Sleek Suede
Gris Charnel
The opening plays dark and sweet at once—cardamom delivers its smoky warmth while fig lends a milky, latex-like greenness that keeps the spice from turning too resinous.
Scarlet Poppy Intense
Myrrh & Tonka
Lavender opens with a medicinal, almost austere clarity before the myrrh arrives—resinous and slightly bitter, like incense burned down to its last threads.
Hommage à l'Homme Eau de Toilette
Hommage à l'Homme opens with saffron and violet leaf alongside bergamot — a warm-metallic-green combination that's unusual for an EDT opening.
Hommage a l'Homme Eau de Toilette
Hommage à l'Homme opens with saffron and violet leaf alongside bergamot — a warm-metallic-green combination that's unusual for an EDT opening.
Jasmine Sambac & Marigold
A heavy, golden jasmine that leans into its indolic side without apology.
Scarlet Poppy Cologne Intense
To Be Exotic Jungle For Woman
Jacomo for Men
Feuille de Figuier Roger & Gallet
Lily & Spice Penhaligon's
The opening arrives as a bright collision—crisp lily shot through with metallic saffron, almost medicinal in its sharpness.
Lily Spice
Ma Reine
Bijou Romantique Etat Libre d'Orange
The opening teases with bright citrus and a flutter of ylang-ylang softened by pink pepper, but this is no conventional tropical bouquet.
Bijou Romantique
Bijou Romantique opens with a flutter of ylang-ylang that feels almost vintage, its creamy exoticism tempered by the sharp crack of pink pepper and citrus.
Velvet Oriental Musk Dolce&Gabbana
Poppy & Barley
Woody Gold
The opening is deceptively simple—a clean bergamot that feels polished rather than zesty, almost like touching cold metal in morning light.