olivia giacobetti
Editor’s note pending — every credited perfumer eventually gets a written profile here.
The compositions
Vapeur Blanche
Idole
Idole opens with a jolt of dark rum—raw, slightly medicinal, and tinged with the metallic warmth of saffron.
Popeline Blanche
Philosykos Eau de Toilette
Idole Eau de Parfum
Idole opens with an unusual pairing: the dark caramel warmth of rum meeting saffron's metallic, slightly medicinal edge.
Blanc Ensoleille
Vouloir Etre Ailleurs C G
Vouloir Être Ailleurs C.G. D’ORSAY
Philosykos Eau de Parfum 2012
The 2012 eau de parfum reformulation of Philosykos sharpens the focus on fig's green, milky immediacy.
Hiris Hermès
Hiris opens with a pale iris shimmer that feels almost silvery—cool and rooty, grounded by a whisper of amber warmth.
Hiris
**Hiris** opens with a dry, earthy iris that feels almost mineral—less floral than stone-dusted and austere.
Tilleul
The opening is sharp and resinous—petitgrain's bitter-green citrus edge cutting through with almost medicinal clarity.
Tilleul D’ORSAY
The opening of Tilleul d'Orsay announces itself with a bright spray of petitgrain—green, slightly bitter, the essence of orange leaves crushed between fingertips.
Philosykos Eau de Parfum
The fig tree in its entirety—leaves, bark, milky sap, and fruit—captured with almost documentary precision.
L'Ete en Douce Extrait de Songe
L'Ete en Douce (Extrait de Songe) L'Artisan Parfumeur
Tea for Two
The star anise arrives first, sharp and licorice-sweet, cutting through bergamot like fennel seed dropped into Earl Grey.
Tea for Two L'Artisan Parfumeur
Tea for Two opens with a sharp, licorice-bright hit of star anise softened by bergamot, immediately conjuring the scent of a proper tea service—spiced, slightly medicinal, unmistakably European in its formality.
Fou d'Absinthe
Black currant opens with a tart dark-fruit bite — not the sweet cassis of oriental florals but the raw leaf-and-berry sharpness of a black currant bush, with an implicit green bitterness beneath.
Fou d'Absinthe L'Artisan Parfumeur
Black currant opens with a tart dark-fruit bite — not the sweet cassis of oriental florals but the raw leaf-and-berry sharpness of a black currant bush, with an implicit green bitterness beneath.
Elixir
A plume of cardamom and cinnamon opens with Victorian apothecary warmth, cut through by eucalyptus's medicinal coolness—an unexpected counterpoint that keeps the spice from becoming cloying.
Elixir Penhaligon's
Elixir opens with an aromatic jolt—eucalyptus cuts through warm cinnamon and cardamom, creating an oddly medicinal brightness that feels more apothecary than perfume counter.
The Collection Noble Wood
Livre Blanc
Drole de Rose
A rose caught between powdered silk and a whisper of smoke.
Drôle de Rose L'Artisan Parfumeur
Drôle de Rose opens with a jolt of star anise that feels medicinal and slightly peppery, an unexpected greeting that immediately distinguishes this rose from sweeter interpretations.
Premier Figuier
Premier Figuier established fig as a serious perfumery accord before it became a genre.
Premier Figuier L'Artisan Parfumeur
Premier Figuier established fig as a serious perfumery accord before it became a genre.
The Collection Energetic Fougère
A synthetic fougère stripped to high contrast, built on amplified rose and a sheer musk-sandalwood base that feels more skeletal than classical.
Ofresia Eau de Toilette
The first impression is a brisk peppercorn brightness that clarifies rather than overwhelms—spice used as a lens to sharpen the freesia at the heart.