nathalie feisthauer
Editor’s note pending — every credited perfumer eventually gets a written profile here.
The compositions
Mauboussin pour Lui In Black
Aqua Oriens
Giordani Man Dolce Vita
Elysium
Cuir Cavalier
Energy C Lime
Touch Grigio Perla
L’Homme Aux Gants
Must de Cartier Pour Homme
Grapefruit and bergamot open Must de Cartier pour Homme with a slightly unusual edge: anise threads through the citrus, adding a dry, faintly licorice-like sharpness that keeps the top from reading as a standard fresh masculine.
Havana
The opening is sharp and herbal, basil cutting through with an almost medicinal clarity before the warmth begins to gather.
Eau des Merveilles Constellation
Eau des Merveilles Constellation Hermès
Comme des Garcons Series Luxe: Champaca
Paris Chéri Astrophil & Stella
Paris Cheri
Blonde
A white floral that arrives with immediate, almost aggressive intensity.
Sweet Taboo
L’Aimée
Eau des Merveilles
The opening of Eau des Merveilles defies easy categorization—a brief flash of citrus gives way almost immediately to a warm, peppery amber that hovers somewhere between resinous sweetness and clean mineral.
Eau des Merveilles Hermès
Eau des Merveilles opens with a peculiar dryness—citrus that feels dusted rather than juicy, almost resinous from the start.
Pelargonium
Eau Belle d'Azzaro
Essence Oud
The opening surges with rose and saffron, not delicate but forceful, almost metallic in their intensity.
Yohji Yamamoto pour Femme
A tender floral-oriental that opened Yamamoto's fragrance chapter with understated conviction.
Eclat for Men
Honour Man
Honour Man opens with a sharp dual-pepper accord — black and pink pepper together, dry and precise — before nutmeg adds a spiced warmth to the midrange without sweetening it.
Aqua Oriens Van Cleef & Arpels
Energy C Lemon
Oud Galoré
Noble Cedar
92
Giordani Gold Man
Yellow Jeans
Rock N Passion
Giordani Gold Original
Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire Eau de Toilette
Legend Pour Femme
A crisp pear opening gives way almost immediately to soft white florals, the neroli and orange blossom forming a gauzy backdrop rather than a sharp citrus statement.
Energy C Grapefruit
Comme des Garcons Series 8 Guerrilla: Guerrilla 2
Tokyo Blue
58 Avenue Montaigne pour Homme
58 Avenue Montaigne pour Homme S.T. Dupont
Cow
A pastoral fantasy that never quite touches actual farm life.
Madame M Astrophil & Stella
Madame M
Boss Element
**Boss Element** opens with a crisp, almost aquatic brightness that quickly gives way to a warm ginger core.
Berlin
Optimistic for Him
Cedar Essence
Reve
Rêve opens with the pale gold transparency of ripe pear and neroli, a luminous fruitiness tempered by citrus restraint.
Reve Van Cleef & Arpels
Reve opens with a soft wash of neroli and pear—not the syrupy pear of dessert fragrances, but something more translucent, like fruit glimpsed through gauze.
Lys Soelaberg
Bergamot opens cleanly before stepping aside for lily and iris in the heart — cool, green, almost photosynthetic.
Lys Sølaberg
Bergamot opens with an almost bracing clarity — the kind that suggests exposed coastline rather than a perfumer's organ.
Plus Plus Feminine
Diesel's Plus Plus Feminine opens with an immediate burst of fresh pineapple against a delicate veil of lily of the valley—a contrast that feels both energetic and clean.
Eau de Iceberg Pour Homme
Extatic
Extatic opens with a smooth pear accord that feels more translucent than sweet, almost watery in its freshness.
58 Avenue Montaigne pour Femme
58 Avenue Montaigne pour Femme S.T. Dupont
S.T.
Citrus Grandis
Innocent Rock
Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet: Sticky Cake
Oscar Tropical Flower
Orange Tonic
Autumn Rhythm
Aspire
Giordani Gold
Giordani Gold opens with orange blossom that feels powdery and slightly soapy rather than citrus-bright, setting a clean, polished tone from the start.