julien rasquinet
Editor’s note pending — every credited perfumer eventually gets a written profile here.
The compositions
Citrus Bigarade
Eternal Man
Fleurs de Gardenia
Endless Night for Her
Ascendant Intense
Costume National I
Royal Oud
Royal Oud opens with a sharp flick of pink pepper and citrus, brief and clarifying, before settling into its true character: a dry, almost austere composition centered on cedarwood that reads more like polished wood than classic oud.
Vetiver Geranium
Lemon and bergamot open with clean, precise citrus — bright without being tart, effortless in the way that costs money.
Vanilla & Leather S.T. Dupont
Vanilla Leather
The Moon
Raspberry and saffron are an unusual pairing for a Malle release: the berry sweetness registers for only a moment before the saffron's metallic density takes over, pulling the opening in a more austere, almost medicinal direction.
Wulong Cha X
Wood Blend
Pavilion
Free d'Homme
Raised Spirits
Rose Rouge
A pink pepper and blackcurrant opening gives this rose a tart, faintly metallic brightness before the flower itself arrives—dewy and fresh rather than velvety or powdered.
Rose Rouge Van Cleef & Arpels
Rose Rouge opens with a bright jolt of pink pepper and bergamot that feels more like citrus-spiked berry juice than classic cologne freshness.
Aubade
Enclave
Enclave opens with an unexpected jolt of peppermint alongside cinnamon and cardamom — the cool menthol sharpens the spice rather than softening it, producing an opening that's vivid and slightly disorienting.
Fidelis
Fidelis opens with a taut, spice-heavy salvo—cardamom and cumin glinting against saffron's leathery warmth, while coffee grounds add a roasted, slightly bitter edge.
Secret Woods
Aquila Absolute
Jest
Gladiator Oud
Tabac Rose
**Tabac Rose** opens with a dusky plum sweetness, pink pepper lending a fleeting warmth rather than sharp heat.
Rôses Berberanza Lancôme
The opening is a bright collision: tart raspberry meets the warm bite of ginger, both spiraling around a plush damask rose that refuses to sit quietly.
Roses Berberanza
Roses Berberanza opens with a bright tangle of raspberry and mandarin, softened by saffron's metallic warmth.
Hacivat X
Hacivat X opens with the recognizable Nishane pineapple signature — tropical and sweet — sharpened by pink pepper's heat and clarified by bergamot's citrus brightness.
Prolixe
Jimmy Choo Man Aqua
Vici Leather
Aberdeen Lavender
Solstice
Solstice opens with a rush of green coolness, like stepping into a conservatory at dawn.
Iris Tuberose
Cedre Blanc
This Is Not A Blue Bottle 1.3
Asian Green Tea
Cupid's Kiss
This Is Not A Blue Bottle
This opens with a bright, unadorned orange that feels almost tart before honey arrives to soften and thicken the composition.
Seahorse
Seahorse opens with a bright shock of fennel—green, anisic, almost medicinal—that gives way to a luminous core of tuberose and neroli.